paddle

paddling into one of my first waves made me feel like a kid again. a year since i last surfed, and too long before that to really ponder, the last time of real surfing may have been the last trip in mexico in '99. the pull as the waves grabs the board, pushing down the face. perfect, like a snowboard turn in fresh powder, it feels right. sitting out there in the line up scanning the horizon for the next bump to roll in, mellow locals for the most part didn't really hog the waves. i can't wait to get back.